Two negative aspects for us in Azerbaijan and Georgia was the number of smokers and the fumes from the old cars and trucks – a lot of them old Russian ones. After pristine Australia with it’s no smoking laws it was hard to walk around the streets without getting a lung full of smoke (every second person smoked) and many restaurants allowed smoking inside. The cigarettes are very cheap and plentiful. At least there was no smoking on the train which was a godsend as the only windows which could be opened were minute and these were locked before we reached the borders. The engines were turned off while they took their time so it was pretty stuffy and we were of course not allowed off the train even though the military were stationed outside.
The customs and immigration on both the Azerbaijan and Georgian sides on the train took forever.
The Azeri customs declaration asked whether we had over the allowed amount of everything but there was no guide with it to tell us what the allowed amounts were so we just answered no to everything.
We got back to Tbilisi by 11am on the 19th September.
We were only 1/2late coming back into Tbilisi and despite a bit of a derelict looking place from the outside our airbnb in the very centre of Tbilisi near Rustaveli Ave had high ceilings, was very tastefully appointed and everything we needed.
We found a lovely cafe just 20metres away and spent the day relaxing and then going for a couple of walks around that part of the city.
Our driver was there at 10am in the morning to take us across to the east to Telavi and Signaghi, a famous Georgian wine growing area.
We passed countless trucks laden with white and black grapes going to be processed. An abandoned former Russian military post looked like a war zone because when they departed they took every door and window with them leaving shells of building.
Our next stop was what they call a monastery but there were no monks just nuns so really a convent. Beautiful buildings and we were ushered into the quaint small orthodox church as a service was taking place. The handful of
nuns were singing and had the most beautiful voices so we were happy to stand there and hear them. A lot of renovations were taking place outside with many workmen. The nuns dress entirely in black and just have their faces uncovered. They were very sweet and welcomed us.
Our next stop was in Telavi which had the most amazing market selling wonderful fresh fruit and vegetables and everything else! The Georgians proudly told us that they grew everything except bananas and pineapples but we found some imported varieties in the supermarkets.
We bought Maurice some Goat’s cheese and some delicious bread before going to the newly opened King Erekle II museum which was built into the side of a hill and within the old palace walls. The renovated palace which was very simple in it’s design. Much of the objects were not behind glass which made it more accessible to see the items in more detail.
The large plane tree in Telavi was more than 900 years old and it was amazing to see it so vigorous with most of it’s trunk missing.
The Tsinandale palace museum was again a beautiful building without being ostentatious. It belong to a prince by the name of Alex Chavchavadze and was owned by the Romanoffs for 30years.
Our last stop before Signagh was Bodbe Monastery – another convent and large complex with a new church underway and being built on the side of a hill. The nun tending the garden was very friendly and like many people wanted to know from where we came. They had a large fruit and vegetable garden and two other nuns were harvesting apples.
We took all day to get to Signaghi which was only two hours from Tbilisi but it was a very enjoyable day taking in the lovely scenery and visiting so many places on the way.
Signaghi is a lovely small town with something similar to the great wall of China around part of the town. It reminded us of Italy in so many ways also. Interesting architecture and beautiful views down to the Alazani valley with the clouds and high Caucasus mountains in the background. Our Lia’s guesthouse was in a perfect position overlooking the town above and the valley and mountains in front of us. It only took us 5 minutes to walk into town and only 15minutes to walk down to the great wall with it’s round lookout towers. We could walk around the whole town in a couple of hours.
A few tourist buses arrived, one with Russian tourists and one with Chinese tourists but they were gone by late afternoon.
The temperature in the shade was quite cool but lovely and warm in the sun. Nights were quite cool. We left Signaghi the next morning after spending two relaxing days there and headed back to Tbilisi for the night before catching an early train (8am) to Batumi a holiday town on the Black sea.