We set off to “Oshino Hakai” next which is a another very popular tourist spot with many busloads of Chinese tourists. There were eight ponds of the clearest water from Mt Fuji and one pond was 8 metres deep.

From there we continued to Hakone to see a shop with very beautiful marquetry woodwork and where we bought a few items. We stopped for coffee in Hakone at a bakery/cafe where you could sit and overlook the lake with your feet in a large foot bath below the large bench table. We just opted for normal seating on the first floor.

Our last two nights were spent in Yokohama in the guest appartment of the block where Maurice’s son Craig and his wife Yuko live. We slept on futons with quilts for most of our stay in Japan and found them very comfortable. Even the bath had push button controls which spoke to us.
From Craig and Yuko’s appartment you could see Mt Fuji on a clear day. We walked down the road to a small “Okonomiyaki” pancake style eatery and ate delicious thin pancakes filled with lots of cabbage and seafood.

Our last full day was spent shopping and a trip to the Nissan headquarters to see their latest cars.
We always enjoyed looking at the goods in the supermarket and it was interesting to see prices of various items like a rockmelon which was nicely packaged and cost about $130! On the road we saw many trees where fruit had been individually wrapped in white paper.

We had lunch on the 70th floor of the “Landmark Tower” with Yuko’s delightful parents and had spectacular views of the Yokohama port and harbour. After lunch we drove to the old area of Yokohama and the cruise terminal whch was a unique building with interesting wooden walkways which afforded great views towards Yokohama and the old part of the city.

Craig and Yuko went to so much trouble organising train tickets and accommodation and giving us good tips and directions to make travel in and out of Tokyo and Kyoto so easy. They even got us very useful “Suica” cards which are a rechargeable card for use on the metro, in some shops and at some snack machines. I was surprised when I bought a can of coffee from an automatic dispensing machine that it was hot and Craig told us that in winter all the drinks bar water and beer were hot.

We drove to near Yokohama station where we met up with Alison and Ryuma to have another good “Izakaya” meal where we had a great variety of dishes.

We detoured on the way home to see the English language school that Craig and Yuko run. It was interesting to see that they were working at the same profession as my mother and Maurice’s mother had chosen many years before.

The next morning We farewelled Craig and Yuko at the train station before taking the Shinkansen back to Narita airport for the 6 1/2 hour plane trip back to KL before flying home to Perth the next morning after a few hour’s sleep.

It was wonderful to see so many snapshots of Japan from two of the largest cities to the lovely countryside and mountains and smaller towns in Honshu. Japan now has about 120 million people living in 47 prefectures. We will go back to Japan to see Craig and Yuko and who treated us to such a wonderful stay. We would like to explore more of that lovely country.

The people we encountered in any service industry were so helpful, polite and courteous in a formal way not found in any other country we had visited to date.

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We arrived at the wonderful Yarimikan-shin Hotake hotel, part of which had been relocated from another part of Japan and which had 8 different “onsen” or hot spring pools where you could soak at any time. You first had to go to the shower room and wash and then you could either dip into the onsen inside or choose one of the other eight located along the hill close to the river.
The hotel only used the thermal spring water for all it’s heating and cooling and even to cool the drinks and boil the eggs, very eco-friendly.

The staff were very professional, welcoming and efficient and there was an enormous variety and amount of Japanese cuisine at it’s best. We enjoyed every minute there. They even had an honour system for buying drinks – you just took them out of a large hollowed out log filled with cold running water and write what you had taken on a sheet of paper on the desk. I couldn’t imagine being able to do that in many countries.

The food was all very fresh including the twitching fish which was given to Maurice. It was taken away rather quickly and replaced with another variety which had been well cooked. The variety and quality of all the food was astounding.
The next morning we had have a go at pounding rice into “mochi” which was delicious eaten with sweet bean paste.

We reluctantly left the hotel the next morning and continued on to Lake Suwa, an area known for making precision tools. Long winding roads with forests interspersed with lovely autumn colours took us to Matsumoto castle where we climbed the several storeys, some with their very steep wooden steps up to the top for a wonderful view of the moat and surrounding area.

The lovely autumn colours continued and we reached Kawaguchiko Lake where from our hotel Konan-su we had a wonderful view of Mt Fuji from our room and a private hot tub on the balcony. We chose an early dinner and had another wonderful array of many beautifully presented dishes.

The toilet in our room was the most high tech one we had seen. The light came on when you opened the door and the toilet seat automatically was raised. The seat was of course heated and a panel on the wall allowed you many functions including rushing water noises. We were lucky to see Fuji that day and in the early evening as it was clouded over the following day.

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We met up with Maurice’s son Craig and his lovely Japanese wife Yuko at Takayama station. They had taken some days off from their English teaching school in Yokohama to show us around some lovely old traditional towns, one being Takayama with it’s specialty shops of quality souvenirs and Sake shops where I bought a small Sake cup and tried half a dozen different Sakes and which I could later keep.

Our first night was spent in Shirakawa-go at the Nodaniya Ryokan which is part of a local owner’s house. Check in times were about 3pm but breakfasts were served very early at 7.30am up to 8.30am and some had a time limit for breakfast. Check out times were also very early, one at 9am and one at 10am.

Shirakawa-go is a very popular tourist destination especially during the day with busloads of local and foreign tourists wandering around the quaint town with it’s thatch roofed houses. A concrete covered suspension bridge brought the bulk of tourists into the town. We took pictures from a hill high above the town and had a coffee in a very quaint shop in the middle of town. After the tourist buses left for the day it was lovely and quiet and an old style rural village.

We drove further into the mountains where we caught a double storey cable car up the Shin Hotake Ropeway to over 2000metres where it was a cold 1 degree with a cutting wind. The views over the mountains and down to the valley where we were to spend the night were however spectacular. At the higher altitudes a lot of the trees had already lost their leaves and below the trees were still changing colour.

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We took a taxi to the north side of Kyoto station to the “My Stay” accommodation which was a more compact and modern hotel. It did have extras such as a heated part of the bathroom mirror which didn’t fog up after a shower. Other more expensive hotels could learn from that.
We decided to do a reconnaissance of the station we would use the following day to go to Arashiyama, a popular tourist spot around the hilly western side of Kyoto. Half the day was gone by then so we
opted to take the train to the Fushimi Inari Shrine with it’s more than 1000 red poles set in a lovely tiered garden setting. Back at Kyoto station we took a bus back to the hotel, had a rest and then set off on foot to Gion (the historical part of town)where we had dinner and wandered around the atmospheric alleyways. Many young girls and some older women were dressed in Kimono but we didn’t see any of the fully made up Geisha who work in that area. We had walked many kilometres that day and staggered back to the hotel after dinner.

We caught the 8.17am Randen Saga tramway and then took the Torokko scenic train (with views of the river below)to the Arashiyama area with the white gloved station staff waving us off. We transferred to a bus for the 1/2 hour journey to the Hozugawa river at Komaneka where we boarded the flat bottomed river boat for the 1/45minute ride down the river with it’s gentle rapids and the view of the forest displaying a few lovely autumn colours. We were the only foreigners on the boat and unfortunately missed out on the lively commentary by the three boatmen who were jolly fellows and who had the passengers in fits of laughter. A drawback not knowing the language.

The boat took us to the centre of Arashiyama with it’s many temples and tourist shops.
We found our way to the Tenryu-ji temple and walked around the gardens before having a delicious lunch (which Yuko had booked for us, given it’s popularity)at one of the temple buildings sitting cross legged on tatami mats.

The main street was bustling with many tourists, mainly local and we found a cheerful “Rikisha” or rickshaw driver who took us to the amazing bamboo forest about a kilometre away and then dropped us at a bridge near the river where we were interviewed and filmed by Kyoto tourism who just happened to be where we had stopped. The rickshaw ride was pricey at $70 for 20minutes but it was a Japanese experience and the young guy had to pull us all the way. We apologised for being heavier than the average weight of his passengers but he told us that the rickshaw could take 250kilos but that he could only manage 200kilos – I forgot to ask if that was for two or only one passenger but it was a fairly snug fit for the both of us.

The JR train took us back to Kyoto station where we caught a bus to the historic Nijo-jo castle,an enormous one storey series of wooden reception rooms and residence to the ruling Shoguns. The huge grounds full of plum trees and a large lake were surrounded by a very thick stone wall surrounding the moat. Walking around the castle and gardens took us a good two hours.

We caught the bus back to Gion where we stopped for dinner before making our way back along the main brightly lit shopping streets to the hotel for an early night.
When walking on the wide footpaths we had to continuously dodge bicycles which seemed to have no
defined route (left or right). This seemed so strange to us as most things were done in such an orderly fashion.

We left the hotel at 7am to take the bus to Kyoto station and boarded the Shinkansen to Takayama with a change at Nagoya to the “Hida” wide windowed scenic train trip through the hills and river below. We passed many fields with bright yellow rice crops and many persimon trees laden with fruit. They seem to be a very popular fruit here in Japan and many have been grown into a square shape. Rockmelons are a perfect shape and a fantastic price packaged mainly as gifts.

Buses were entered at the back of the bus via a sliding door and passengers paid when leaving the bus either with correct change or with pre paid cards. There are change machines on some of the buses and all stations are displayed on a screen and announced in Japanese and English.

We met up with Maurice’s son Craig and his Japanese wife Yuko at Takayama station. They had taken some days off from their English teaching school in Yokohama to show us around some lovely old traditional towns, one being Takayama with it’s specialty shops of quality souvenirs and Sake shops where I bought a small Sake cup and tried half a dozen different Sakes.

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We had very smooth flights from Rome to Dubai on the 18th October, a couple of nice days with our friend Alan and a lovely swim at Jumeirah beach before continuing two days later to KL for one night (well 4hours sleep) and then at 7am on the 22nd October to Narita airport arriving at 3pm, in time to exchange our Japan rail passes for vouchers, pick up our pre-ordered data sim card (which can only be rented and not bought) and get on the Narita express train to Shinjuku station – all very easy to find and everything well ordered, neat, clean and very organized with white gloved ushers showing us the way to the metro. The only difference on the metro here in Japan is that no-one offered Maurice a seat unlike in Russia and China.

The signage at the train stations and at bus stops was very good and if we needed to ask a question we found that the comprehension of English was pretty good so we found our way easily to the Central East exit of the station (one of 200 exits). The Gracery hotel in Shinjuku district where we spent three nights with an enormous “Godzilla” head as it’s feature was easily located down a couple of more or less pedestrian areas in the Kabukicho area (one known for never sleeping) full of cafes and restaurants, some open 24hours as well as girly bars and clubs. It was a very popular area especially at night with streets full of people. Outside some of the clubs were African men in suits and some colourful transvestites. We felt very safe everywhere and people very always willing to help us with directions or general information.

Some main streets were very wide with a myriad of pedestrian crossings in every direction.
We checked in (also very efficient) and made our way in the speedy lift to the 29th floor where we had quite a surprisingly spacious room with every amenity possible. There was a separate bath-room where you could sit outside the bath to shower or relax in the bath. The basin was outside, opposite the bath area. A note about many of the toilets in the hotels and department stores in Japan: They had heated seats and many made gurgling sounds when you sat down. They also had various push button functions, one was to have music playing to disguise any unwanted sounds.
That night we found a small noodle bar/restaurant just opposite the hotel and were seated in a small booth where we could close the door. The delicious soup with noodles and vegetables only cost us about $9 each. We were feeling decidedly “zombieish” so after a brief walk went back and crashed. There were thousands of eateries everywhere and many places where we could eat good food for under $10 and be fully sated.

We had a 12hour sleep after our previous night’s four hours before heading for the metro to see the Imperial Palace’s external garden with it’s topiaried pines and one of the bridges leading to the palace. The weather was very mild and we were lucky to have no rain and quite a lot of sunshine in Tokyo. We happened upon Hibiya Park near the palace where a band was playing and there were beautiful small garden and floral displays and many stalls advertising all things for the garden as well as a couple of food stalls. We tried sticky rice balls with soya sauce and delicious mussel miso soup and roasted black tea as well as a variety of sushi all of which was very reasonably priced.

We walked to the Mitsubishi building where we decided to take the Hop On Hop Off bus and do the Asakusa Tokyo skytree route which gave us a good overview of the Asakusa, Ueno and Akihabara areas of Tokyo as well as seeing the Skytree which is the second highest structure in the world after Burj Khalifa in Dubai. The route took about an hour before we left it and took the metro with a transfer back to the hotel for a bit of a break before going out for dinner to an “Izakaya” restaurant with our friend Alison who lives in Tokyo and is teaching English. This style of restaurant was used by many businessmen after working late and was a drinking establishment which served food to accompany drinks. In some one sat on tatami mats or at low tables (we opted for that) and there was usually a time limit of a couple of hours to eat and drink what you wanted. Food could be ordered to share at any time. Young green soy beans were served as a snack and were very refreshing and moorish. We ate a variety of food from cold tofu to eggplant dishes, herbed omlette and crunchy tempura style vegetables. This I washed down with a mixed sake, soda and lemon drink which had a slightly sour but pleasant taste.

A lot of the metro interchange walks were much shorter but more of a maze than the corresponding ones in Beijing and London where some transfer corridors were more than a kilometre long. They were however well signposted with more white gloved ushers showing us the way in areas under reconstruction. The whole transport system and information areas were well manned and very efficiently run. The Japanese are very safety conscious on all levels with written and verbal warnings everywhere. The order also extended to queues with a lot of lines drawn on the ground with footprints showing one where to stand at the ATM machines behind the person making the transaction.
Although Tokyo only has a couple more million people than Beijing it felt a lot more crowded especially on the streets with people seeming to move along in waves. In Tokyo we saw relatively few western foreigners but many groups of local and Chinese tourists with their tour leaders holding their flags.

The city with it’s 14 million people was vast so we took the hop on hop bus again as we still had half a day’s validity on the tickets. We just made the bus by a couple of minutes running the last few metres. We knew that if we were a minute late it would have been gone. The “Odaiba” route took us past the Tokyo tower and on the expressway over the river to the Ginza area past various other districts. We got off and after a good cup of coffee in the “Doutor” cafe we wandered around the streets of the Ginza area, one of which had been blocked off on the weekend and set up with tables, chairs and umbrellas.
We went back on the metro to Asakusa where we found the Senso-ji temple and it’s myriad of souvenir shops which lined the way to the temple.
Many worshipers were taking wooden sticks which had a slip of paper inside. If the message was one of good fortune they would tie the paper on a rack and if it was not one of good fortune it was thrown away. A good way of avoiding bad fortune!
There were many restaurants in the area and we chose a soba noodle one for a bowl of soup and tempura vegetables. This was fairly pricey but apparently usual for that tourist area.

We took the train back to the hotel for a rest and a bath with bath salts that had been given to us with the written instruction “Do not eat”.
Refreshed we took a JR train ride included on our Japan rail pass (which had to be purchased prior to arrival in Japan)to the Shibuya district. We exited at the “Hatchiko” exit, complete with statue of the dog Hatchiko who was owned by a university professor and who used to accompany him to the station every day and wait for him to return from work. The professor died unexpectedly in 1925 and the dog returned to the station every day for 10 years waiting for his owner. Street vendors fed and cared for him until he died in 1935.

We met Alison and her Japanese boyfriend Ryuma at the station and had a look at a multi storey shop with all sorts of weird and wonderful clothing and accessory items for young girls. Some of the shop assistants and customers looked like they were ready for a fancy dress party but it was their “normal” clothing. Some excessively gaudy costumes were a prelude to Halloween which is widely celebrated in Japan for several weeks.

We ate at the top storey of a large department store adjacent to the station. There were many restaurants all with their popular plastic food displays. We chose an “Udon” noodle restaurant.
I asked Ryuma why there was a need for these replicas for locals who could read Japanese menus and he told me that Japanese people like to see what the actual dish would look like and are attracted if it looks appetising. A bit like a recipe book with photos. Most of the actual dishes did also look like their plastic replicas so I too thought it a good idea. Some plastic food looked very authentic but some looked as though it had already been eaten. The plastic food manufacturers (a whole street in Tokyo as well as in some other cities) can charge many hundreds of thousands of yen for a complete menu in plastic. There were approximately 90yen to the Australian dollar.

The following morning we checked out of the hotel using a machine not unlike an ATM machine and caught the JR line to Tokyo station where we changed for the “Shinkansen” or bullet train – one of the slower ones at only 300kms an hour for the 2 3/4h hour trip to Kyoto.

The dense low rise housing near the city was very stark with virtually no trees but this gave way to more residential housing with more greenery and then low hills. It was a beautiful warm and sunny clear day and we got a good view of Mt Fuji on the way down to Kyoto. We found our way to our traditional “Ryokan” but were early for their 3pm check in time so we left our bags (the large bags had been left at the hotel in KL and we were glad of that as there were many stairs to climb at some of the stations) and went across the road to the Higashi Honganji temple which was undergoing a large restoration project and they were also celebrating the 750th anniversary of their founder.
We found a local coffee shop which specialized in coffee where the beans had been individually roasted or that’s what it said on the door. Unfortunately for one who was used to espresso coffee this was more like milk with a dash. The coffee was brewed and was very weak but at least I tried it. I did manage to get them to add a little more coffee so that it had some flavour.

Back at the ryokan and were served green tea and given a tour of the lovely traditional inn which had been operating since 1839. The calming nature of the inn and scent of wood with the traditional rice paper doors and tatami mats made it a very atmospheric and authentic old world Japanese experience. A complete Japanese breakfast was included but as the B and B experience was very pricey we dared not eat our evening meal there so we opted for another department store where there were several restaurants on the top floor.
We found one which served the gyoza (delicious vegetable dumplings which were steamed and very lightly fried)and noodle soup and a nice waitress helped us to pay for the meal by putting money into a machine with pictures of each dish. Once we had bought our tickets we were directed to sit outside to wait for a table. Once we were seated inside the tickets were then taken and food prepared. It saved on waiters and if a mistake was made it was made by the customer.

There are simple restaurants galore and also an abundance of vending machines selling every conceivable kind of drinks and snacks. Maurice’s son Craig sent us “Suica” cards which were a rechargeable debit card for use on the metro and at some food stores, cafes and vending machines and which saved on buying bus and metro tickets each time we travelled.

The Ryokan gave us bath kimonos and cute kits similar to ones on planes with socks, toothbrush, comb etc. We luxuriated in the enormous bath which had been run for us. The house comprised of only 8 rooms and was very quiet (given the paper thin walls)and we had a wonderful night’s sleep.

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It was a cold, wet trip through France with rain ranging from light to torrential most of the way. We stayed one night in the Champagne-Ardennes region near Geraudot after driving about 400kms before making out way to Italy travelling 500kms throught the Burgundy and Rhone-Alps regions to our campsite west of Turin. We avoided the very expensive Mt Blanc/Frejus tunnel by detouring over the Alps which turned out to be a very long way around in a lot of fog and then rain.

After fighting with Vodafone Italy regarding our telephone packages and me telling them that they were all thieves we finally got someone to help us after parting with more euros to get some telephone and internet time. We got to our next campsite “Gran Bosco” in the mountains on dark but at least it had stopped raining although it was very wet underfoot. We were lucky that next morning we awoke to brilliant sunshine and a view of the mountains, some with snow on them already.

Facebook can be very useful and it was because our friends Ksenia and Faisal were also in the area and we met up with them for lunch in Turin. We hadn’t seen Ksenia since India and before that Moscow so it was lovely to catch up with her and meet her Dutch boyfriend of Egyptian descent.

After a long lunch we headed south east to Rimini and then on to have a look at the Republic of San Marino which loomed up ahead on a hilltop. There were many tourists and school groups there so we had a quick look and then made our way back to the coast and down to “Eurocamping” at Roseto degli Abruzzi to do some housekeeping for two nights before heading back to our base at Roccamandolfi.

By the 10th October when we arrived back the fog had set in for two days and then a day of brilliant sunshine which makes everything look much better. We spent the week taking everything out of the van, getting it washed and spending time with friends. I also managed to persuade two of my cousins to come to see us as it is only about 2hours from where they live. We had a nice Sunday lunch. We also helped a friend Maria celebrate her 60th birthday at a local restaurant. Maurice was suffering from sinusitis and me a cold so we would be glad to leave the colder weather. We had the fire on every night and the top part of the village where we stayed was a lot cooler than down below.

We had an early flight from Rome so caught the train from Isernia on the 17th October and left for Dubai on the 18th.

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We left Morocco on the 11th of September and enjoyed the nice, calm hour and a half crossing from Tanger Med port to Algerciras and up to Manilva and Camping Bella Vista which was another wonderful campsite set up by an English company with no expense spared. It was AUD43 a night which was a shock after the AUD10-12 a night everywhere in Morocco but we were back in mainland Europe.

We wanted a few days R and R and to do the washing etc. We also needed two new front brake pads on the van and had to wait until the Monday to have them fitted in Sabinillas. As soon as we arrived at the camp a little furry friend made her/himself known to us and promptly had a look around the van and then settled on the mat outside. Our first meal was…..fish and chips and peas (not mushy) first time for about three years!

It was a very windy couple of days but we were able to catch up on a lot of things and go for a nice walk into the small town of Manilva with it’s many holiday appartments and marina. There were a lot of English people around and the predominant skin colour was very red over white and the hair colour was bleached blond for the women.
We actually watched a movie on our TV “The Railway Man” the first one of our videos that we had seen since leaving Bali. There was too much to see and do for the last three months in Greece, Turkey and Morocco that by the end of the day after much walking and sightseeing and then cooking a meal, writing my blog and sorting photos that there was no time for a movie.

We had booked in to have the front brake pads changed on Monday morning but the man
couldn’t do it until late afternoon when the parts had come in so we went back to the campsite, had lunch and returned only to find that they were the wrong size so we had to wait while one of the workers went off to get the correct ones. We didn’t get away until 5.30pm and we had a 3 1/2 hour drive up to “Despenaperros” campsite near a national park in Santa Elena. We had a good run and arrived at 9.15pm. Thank God for twilight.

Leaving the next morning we drove a bit of the Autovia and then onto secondary roads with kilometres of olives groves and vineyards on both sides of the road. The grape harvest was in full swing. Towards the city of Albacete there were many abandoned properties and houses – sad to see.
We visited my favourite Spanish department store “El Cortes Ingles” in Albacete, a very clean and orderly city before going on to “Mon Mar” campsite at Moncofa north of Valencia. It was the only campsite at which we had stayed the previous year. It was slowly cooling down, 21degrees in the mountains and 28-31degrees on the coast. The hot weather was nearly over, unfortunately for us and Autumn and the colder weather was not far away.

We stopped at the lovely city of Castellon de Plana which was surrounded by citrus orchards to visit the hairdresser and do some shopping.
As usual the parking spots shown on “maps me” did not show whether the parking was
underground where we wouldn’t fit or above ground so we just drove around the city and luckily found a large free above ground parking area which gave us a rushed 1/2 hour walk back to the hairdressers.

Then on to Torredembarra for two nights on the coast before heading for Barcelona. “Camping Noria” was one of the best campsites at which we had stayed with a lovely sandy beach and close to town. The staff in particular were excellent and even gave Maurice a small lemon slice with a single candle for his 70th birthday on the 18th September before we set off for Barcelona on a beautiful clear, sunny day.

We had decided to have a bit of luxury for three nights at a nice hotel in the city centre so after missing the parking entrance which was not well sign posted and doing a few circles we left Van Mauriceson in the BSM underground bus carpark for 20euros a day and took the metro into the city to stay at the “Hesperia Presidente hotel” on Diagonal in the suburb of Eixample, a very central location only ten minutes walk to the metro.

I had arranged a surprise party for Maurice at “Acces” restaurant not far away and he got a big surprise and shock to see three of his cousins from Ireland and one from Barcelona and his wife and long standing Irish friends from Perth there who happened to be in Europe on holiday and who rearranged their travel to include Maurice’s birthday celebration. Everyone enjoyed the wonderful and plentiful meal and service. Most restaurants in Barcelona well Spain really don’t open at night until 8.30pm so it was after 1.00am by the time we had finished our meal and had cake and complimentary champagne from the management.

We met Maurice’s cousin Caroline the next morning for a long breakfast and then get supplies for more drinks and nibbles in the hotel before going to dinner to “Elche” restaurant to have a paella.
Maurice didn’t feel too well the following day so went back to the hotel after a walk and I continued on to explore the small alleyways of the city and meet up with our friends in “La Rambla” to have a last drink with them before going back to the hotel and taking Maurice to dinner to a local restaurant for dinner.
We took a taxi the next morning to the metro station and made our way back to the van and headed for Pampelonne in the Mid Pyrenees region and our friend Dieter and Heddi for the night. We took the highway on that occasion via Carcasonne and Toulouse as we wanted to get to our destination before nightfall. It was another beautiful clear, warm day.

We went from 25degrees, T shirt and shorts on the 21st September to jeans and jumpers and 14degrees on the 22nd September. It was getting us ready for England.
We left in the mid morning the following day with mist and light rain and that continued the whole day with some torrential rain along the way to Salbris, south of Orleans via Limoges.

We passed many pretty little picturesque villages along the way dotted among the green rolling hills.
We stayed that night at “Camping de Sologne” at the pretty village of Salbris. It was close to the highway on our way via Paris to Dunkirk which we drove in one stretch. Our last couple of nights were spent at “Le Etrans” in the Bray dunes near Dunkirk where it was cold and raining. It was the only time we got bogged and in a camping ground! We were luckily pulled out the next morning by two cheerful chaps and their works vehicle.
We left Dunkirk on the 25th September for England. Security was tight and officers looked in and at the back of the van. It seemed that all the trucks were being xrayed before boarding the ferry. The crossing like most of our crossings was smooth and it was only a two hour trip to Dover.

We went straight to our friends in the Chiltern hills which was like going home. They always made us so welcome and we had a nice relaxing time – sitting in their lovely garden, going out for nice meals and out on their boat on the Thames. For the first time in our 3 1/2 years the weather was really kind to us and we had a beautiful sunny ten days (albeit a bit cold especially in the mornings and evenings). Our last couple of days were spent catching up with friends and relatives in London and doing a bit of retail therapy at my favourite TKMaxx store.

On our way up to the M25 we passed through the “Dartford tunnel” but did not notice the placard stating a toll and as we were about to leave England we were told that we would be fined if we had not paid this within 24hours! Well we were too late for that so we googled it, rang them and paid the reduced fine of 35 pounds (within 14days) or otherwise it would have been 70 pounds fine! I made sure I prepaid the 2.50pounds toll online before we left. We actually went over the bridge above the tunnel but the toll is still payable.

We sadly got news that a lovely friend of ours in Perth had died that morning with his partner and dog by his side after a 7month battle with stomach cancer. It reinforced our mantra to make the most of every day and as Maurice always said it was a day we would never have again.

We left Dover on a cloudy,cold and rainy day on 5th October for Calais and to do a quick run back to Italy to prepare the van for it’s winter hibernation.

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Our last night in Morocco was spent at Martil a seaside resort near Tetouan.
We especially got up early and drove along the coast to get to Ceuta – part of the African mainland but belonging to Spain. The coast between Martil and Fndiq was full of luxury villas, appartments and manicured gardens. We must have passed the royal Summer residences in M’Diq judging by all the police, military and royal guards dotted along about 500 metres of high wall. We stopped at Fndiq for some breakfast and I had a typical Moroccan one – two kinds of round bread, three
different cheeses and a friend egg all drizzled with olive oil and what was like shredded polony – I left that but the rest was delicious. Maurice was boring and had a “pain au chocolat”.
We had to go through all the customs and passport formalities of first Morocco then Spain including a look into the van to see we had no illegals. Ceuta was like being on mainland Spain except for some Moroccans wandering around in their traditional dress. We could just spot the top of Gibraltar from Ceuta as we meandered around the coast. It was a very crowded looking city with buildings on
top of each other and no parking to be had by the time we arrived. They even had a jail on top of a hill. We left plenty of time to get back through the Spanish and Moroccan customs and immigration procedures again.
The Moroccan customs officer just wanted a quick look in the back of the van and asked us if we had any guns or pistols! We then drove over the Rif mountains with lone police standing on every hill and to Tanger Med – the new ferry port. Here they xrayed every car. We had to get out of the car and they did about five at a time with an enormous machine that moved over the vehicles. Inside were three people watching the screen. Probably looking for illegals.

A couple of words about Morocco – we were a bit apprehensive before we arrived with all the media attention given to any Islamic country however we found the people very friendly and helpful and never felt threatened in any way. Camping sites were secure with gates that were shut at night and someone on duty at all times. Parking was easy with men in fluoro jackets who would find a parking spot and who looked after the vehicle for a few dirhams. There was massive construction underway or
recently completed of roads and new appartments and official buildings all over the country as well as beautification of entrances to nearly every city or town with fountains and gardens.
We especially enjoyed the out of the way backroads and villages where the people made us feel very welcome and who were interested to know where we came from. The only pressure came from a few of the stall holders in the medinas who wanted us to buy their products. Any slight interest shown in anything and they would pounce from afar.
Morocco is a very long and large country. We covered nearly 3,000 kilometres in three weeks and only got to about half way down the country but we were happy with everything we saw and the lovely people we met. We would have stayed longer but we had to get back to Spain and up to Barcelona for Maurice’s 70th birthday celebrations on the 18th September.

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Many people had said not to bother with Casablanca and reports we had read was of to be a run down and not particularly nice city but we found the opposite.
State of the Art train station, tramways and many hotels like the “Sofitel” and very upmarket residences all along it’s coast. A mix of modern and old city and a large walled Medina.
Hassan II mosque was a most impressive building right on the seafront. Of course there were poorer areas on the edge of town but these were clean and tidy for the most part. “Camping Ocean Blue” was located at Mohammedia to the north of Casablanca on the coast but it was a rocky beach so swimming was not on the cards. We actually had another couple of French campers in the park.

We opted for a taxi to the train station about 15minutes the next day instead of trying to find parking in the city. The train station at Mohammedia was modern and very clean and a trip into town only took about 20minutes. The medina in Casablanca was an interesting one and quite different to the ones in Fes and Marrakech. We bought a couple of gifts where haggling was obligatory and we came across a lady and a sewing machine so she took in a dress that I had bought and only charged me 10dirhams or $1.40.

The city had both “Petit taxis” and “Grand Taxis”. The former were smaller Renault Dacia logans and the latter were all old Mercedes. They worked on a shared basis and you just had to hail a taxi, tell the driver where you wanted to go and he either said yes or no. We started with just us in a Mercedes and this swelled to six passengers along the way (a few needing a bath). In the middle of the traffic one got out and got into another car and someone replaced him. We knew how the sardines in the tin felt then. We were dropped off near “Quartier Habbous” a very nice suburb with government offices, lovely gardens and many streets with columned archways in front of their buildings. We bought a couple of things and the very nice shopkeeper walked us a few blocks to a very nice cafe/restaurant where we had a light lunch. We had to walk a fair way before a petit taxi picked us up and took us to a small museum which unfortunately was closed being Monday.

We walked again to the tramway where we wanted to just go for a ride to see more of Casablanca with it’s six million inhabitants. The last stop was on the coast where people were enjoying the beach. There were many umbrellas on the beach but no sun lounges only plastic chairs. Another taxi ride (they only cost a maximum of 20dirhams and mostly 10dirhams for two people) took us to the Hassan II mosque. The mosques in Morocco were very different from the ones in the UAE with square turrets rather than rounded ones. We walked some more kilometres to “Ricks Cafe” which was nothing like the original one in the film but even so very beautiful with stunning decor and some of the waiters wearing Fez. I was spoilt and had a gin and tonic (my first alcoholic beverage out since arriving in Morocco)and a very good glass of champagne (it wanted to be at $25) and complimentary olives and almonds. The atmosphere was wonderful and we felt like staying for dinner but it was getting dark and we had to catch a train and a taxi back to the campsite. We left and got a bit lost and ended up outside a massive construction site for new appartments and offices. The site offices didn’t look too bad but the worker’s dwellings were very basic shacks.

We asked for directions to the train station and as usual the replies were very friendly and always ended with “je vous en Prie” – you’re welcome. Such willing, friendly and courteous people everywhere and they were a happy people. We could see this by the way people greeted each other and the banter in Berber or Arabic.

We wanted to see the capital Rabat and it was on our route up the coast about an hour north of Casablanca. The entry to the city along the coast was being upgraded and planted with at least five kilometres of new palms and all new footpaths. The scale of it was incredible. It was another interesting but quite different city from the others in Morocco as it comprised two walled cities – one on each side of the river. The southern one was the more interesting one with a new city and an
old city and medina. The medina was slightly different from the other medinas we had seen in Marrakech, Casablanca and Fes but they all had their own style and way of displaying their goods.

Rabat also had a good tramway network so after parking the van in a large open carpark by the river we took the tramway up to the medina and walked around for a couple of hours and over to the Kasbah overlooking the ocean.
After lunch in the van we left Rabat and looked for an exotic garden which was mentioned as being 20 kilometres out of town near Sidi Bouknadel. We missed the turn off as it was not signposted out of town and was only ten kilometres from Rabat. We turned around and it was well worth backtracking to visit it. The “Jardin Exotique de Bouknadel” was originally a garden developed by Marcel Francois
who went to Marocco from France after the second world war. He was a horticultural graduate and in 1949 he landscaped many hectares into a wonderful garden which now had very tall trees and plants from all over the world. His house by comparison was very modest.

We went further up the coast to Kenitra and had a break and then on to Ouazzane where we arrived late about 8pm and spend the night at the camping area at the “Rif motel”. The next morning we saw two busloads of foreign tourists, mainly Australians who had stopped there for coffee.

We left and followed the rolling hills into Chefchouen (the blue city)passing many stalls selling a different variety of carpet and unusual straw hats with different coloured pom poms which all the country people were wearing. We wound our way up to a basic campsite which was in a wonderful position high above the town and only a ten minute walk down to the old town and medina via many steps. We set up and walked down to have a look around and have a coffee above the main marketplace
which had a strong odour of fish. There were strange little numbered wooden booths where the women sold the usual round bread in the mornings and numbered stalls for fruit and vegetables.
The blue old town was VERY blue and many shades of the colour. It was a pleasant small town and an afternoon was enough to see what the place had to offer.

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After 5nights in Marrakech we headed for the Atlantic coast at Essaouira passing many vineyards and apple orchards and olive groves. Closer to Essaouira were many Argan tree groves and we stopped at one of the factory outlets to see how the Argan oil was produced from the nuts of the Argan trees. The main avenue and seaside road was beautifully planted with trees and flowers like the entrance to most cities and towns around Morocco. Even the small villages were neat and clean. There was usually one spot where all the rubbish was dumped.

Essaouira, a seaside resort on the Atlantic was an interesting city with a lovely beachfront and interesting fishing harbour and ramparts left from the Portuguese time there in the seventeenth century. It was a major caravan port for slaves and goods from southern Africa on their way to Europe. The ramparts were modernised over a century later and were very impressive overlooking the city and Mogador island where the Romans had centuries before constructed a villa. A very strong wind was blowing as we came into town and as walked around the colourful fishing harbour and up onto the ramparts.

The old town had many cafes, restaurants and tourist shops selling leather,carpets and many wooden articles as well as peanuts and dried fruit. We had a good walk around town and went back to our car minder with his fluoro jacket, paid him and went to our campsite on the edge of town which was a severe let down after our last 5star stay! We however decided to move further up the coast the following day but a fellow French camper showed us that we had a flat tyre on our way out of the campsite. Luckily it was Sunday in Morocco and so the local service station called a very friendly repairer who was there in ten minutes on his scooter and who fixed the tyre for 150dirhams or $20 and we were on our way again.

The drive from Essaouira to Safi along the coast was a very interesting one. There were many fancy houses built close to the coast near Essaouira and after a few kilometers this gave way to an enormous amount of industry and factories and a very large port construction. There were so many horse and carts – open and some with flimsy covers carrying people and others carrying hay and sand and various other goods.

After seeing so many police checkpoints on the road all over the country where we were just waved through, we were stopped at one and asked for a driver’s licence. Maurice gave over his licence and he said he wanted mine. I threw my hands up and he then looked properly and saw the wheel was on the other side of the vehicle. He started to laugh and we all did including his fellow officers who would have given him a hard time afterwards!

The air was lovely and clear and clean after we had passed the factories and we then came to many stone walls sectioning off land for future houses and areas for livestock and then a beautiful patchwork of crops and arable land which stretched down to the coast. Roadside stall were selling tomatoes and pumpkins of all varieties.

Safi on the coast and on the way up to Casablanca was another walled town and El Jadida also on the coast was not as affluent but had some interesting buildings and there was a lot of contruction in the city. We passed seas of new appartments in various stages of readiness and we were even given leaflets on the road about new residences which were under construction. Morocco was another country it seemed on the move with all the new habitation and many new cars on the road.

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